Instructions for making Eliminator 4-player canopy: Tools: Nail gun Glue Drill router t-molding bit Saw Parts needed: (all wood black laminate or melamane totalling 3/4" thick unless noted) 2 Regular Eliminator marquees (same color preferably) 4 square tubes 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" x desired height (I used 38 1/2") 4 square tube end caps (black plastic) 1 sheet 25 1/2" x 32 7/8", t-molding cut, with a groove 1/4" deep by 1/4" wide in 3/4" from the borders (this is for holding top of marquee) (part A) 1 sheet 25 1/2" x 32 7/8", t-molding cut, with a groove 1/8" deep by 1/4" wide in 3/4" from the borders (this is for holding bottom of marquee) (part B) 4 5 11/16" x 4 1/4", t-molding on one of the 5 11/16" edges (part C) 8 1" x 1" x 3" hardwood 4 5 11/16" x 4 " x 3/4" hard wood, with 1/4" x 3/4" removed from one of the long edges (part H) 1 6" x 6" x 4 15/16" of hard wood (part D) 1 8" x 6" x 3/4" of hard wood (part E) 8 1/4" x 4" carriage bolts for top 8 1/4" x 3" carriage bolts for bottom 8 wing nuts 8 1/4" x 1" fender washers 8 1/4" selflocking nuts (not nylon) 4 fluoro assemblies 4 1/8" x 23 7/8" x 5 15/16" plexi 1 black wire 14 gauge 10 ft long 1 white wire 14 gauge 10 ft long Instructions 1 T-mold all items as mentioned before 3 glue and nail part H to part C such that H is shifted 1" from the t-molded edge of C. This should leave the cutout edge aligned with the opposite side of part C. Call this part G 2 take all part Gs and drill two 9/16" holes though part C such that they are 1 3/8" in from the side opposite the t-molded side; 1 down 1" from the top edge, and 1 down 4" from the top edge. Drill clear through G. 3 nail and glue part D's 6" x 6" side to part E such that is is centered on it. There should be 1" lips on each side, and the block should now be a total of 5 11/16" high (coincidence?? I think not). The new block is called part F 4 glue part F to the center of the grooved side of part B. Runs screws or nails through the lips of part F to attach it to B (the other side of B will be visible, so don't lets screws or nails go through this side!) 5 attach part Gs to part B. Place them in the corners, t-molding out, black sides out. The tmolded edge of C should be flush with the wooden edge of part B, and drilled holes 1" from the top are at the top. The black outer side should be flush with the wooden edge (not the t-molding) of part B. Attach parts Gs to part B with a 1" x 1" x 3" hardwood block placed 3/4" away from the edge of part H that is nearest the t-molded edge of C. nail and glue it in place. 6 Place the construct such that the longway is going to your left and right. Drill a hole 9/16" hole through the lower left part G such that the hole is directly between the two existing holes. 7 Mount the fluor assemblies on part B in a square configuration evenly spaced about 3" from the boarders of B. 8 Wire them all together and run their power to the white and black wires 9 Run the black and white wires through the middle hole that was just drilled 10 Place part A directly over B, aligning the G parts the same as mentioned above for B. 11 Drill 4 counter sunk pilot holes. These holes should be in 1" by 2" in from each corner of A such that the holes will go through the top of the part Gs. 12 Drill 8 counter suck pilot holes. These holes should form a 4" by 4" square centered in the top of A, with the holes spaced 2" a part. 13 Attach part A to parts Gs and Part F using 1 1/2" woodscrews. 14 Drill two 9/16" holes clear through each tube at one of the ends. The holes should be centered, 1 down 1 5/8" from the end, another 4 5/8" down, both on the same side of the tube, all the way through the other side. Use a drill press for this to keep the holes aligned properly. These holes should line up with the boxes. 15 For the bottom holes, you should remove the bolts from your eliminator and use those as templates. Put on a square tube cap on the end of a tube and place the tube as it should rest up against the holes. Dip a bolt you removed in black paint, and push in through the hole from the inside until it makes contact with the tube. Turn it a few times and remove it. The tube should now be marked correctly where the hole should go. Do this for all 4 tubes. One corner will have an extra bolt/hole...this will be the wiring hole. Mark this one as well. 16 Drill the holes using a 9/16" bit, and drill the holes clear through EXCEPT for the wiring hole. Only drill that one through one side, and use a 3/4" bit. For that tube, also drill a 3/4" hole directly between the two holes on the other end of the tube. This will match the wiring hole for the box. 17 test a carriage bolt. The bolt head has a square neck, so you'll want to drill the outer holes of the tube slightly larger so these will fit flush when finished. 17 remove any end caps and paint the tubes. 18. For the wired tube, run the wire from the box through the wiring hole at one end, down to the wiring hole at the other end. 19. Attach the tubes to the box using wing nuts, washers and the 4" carriage bolts and insert the square end caps 20. Have someone help you lift the canopy onto the eliminator 4-player 21. Run the wire through the wiring hole in the corner, under the control panel, down to the silver box that contains the interlock switch. Cut the crimp ends of the blue and brown filter box wires and add the white to the blue and the black to the brown, and reconnect them with wire nuts. (if it didn't occur to you the remove power from the game maybe you shouldn't be doing this project) 22. Attach tubes to the game using 3" bolts and selflocking nuts. 22 print out 2 Elim 4-player marquess and sandwich each between 2 plexis. It's up to you how you want to seal it. I used clear tape on the edges. 23 Place the marquees in the box by pushing them up into the upper grove, and they should drop down into the lower groove. The 4-player marquees go in the long sides of the box, and the normal elim marquees go in the far ends. 24. Power up the game and if you did all your wiring correctly, you should have a beautiful canopy To remove the marquess for light adjustment or disassembly of unit, the easist way is to take a piece of packing tap, attach it to middle of marquee and gently lift up and pull out.